From the Beach to Sin Street: A Day in Sitges

Another perfect full-day trip from Barcelona is the sea resort town of Sitges. A half hour train ride from Plaza Catalunya gets you there, and the trains run from 6 A.M. to midnight.

Wedged beautifully between the hills and the sea Sitges has an impressive artistic and cultural heritage. Luckily Sitges escaped the overzealous development that has decimated fate of so much of the Mediterranean coast.

There is nothing tacky or cheap about Sitges.In fact property in “The St. Tropaz of Spain” is as pricy as any city in Europe. But what do you care; you’re only going for a day.

Sitges’s charm is its architecture. Many Catalans went to the Americas to make their fortunes. Many returned in the late 19 century with lots of money and commissioned large mansions in the place to be, Sitges, and in the latest fashion, the art nouveau (modernist) movement of Gaudi and others. Many of these intriguing mansions can be found on the “Carrer Illa de Cuba” (The Island of Cuba Street). Guess where these Catalans made their fortune .Well, not the United States.

And Sitges has always been a center for artists going all the way back to when Catalan impressionist painter Santiago Rusiñol took up residence there.

Of course summer means beaches and Sitges has them for all tastes. If you go in for international crowds and jet-set celebrities, check out the main beach “de la Ribera. See and be seen! If more intimate beaches are more your style search among the small rocky bays and coves. Try Sant Sebastian beach, for example. There is even a nudist beach, permitted but not required.

After a day at the beach Sitges comes alive. After dark the weather cools down, the discos, pubs, and clubs heat up. You can put in some after-dark time at the “Carrer del pecat” (“The Street of Sin”) and still catch the midnight train back to the hotel.

Next week (25 August 21-25), their "Festa Major " is the show. Don't miss all the dance, music and shows of this typical fiesta.

Because of Sitges’s artistic tradition and its sheer beauty many festivals and street parties make their home here. The most famous one is The International Film Festival. Last year it celebrated its 40 th anniversary. It started out dedicated to science fiction, horror, and fantasy flicks and keeps a lot of this tone and attracts film celebrities year after year. It is coming up from October 2 to 12.

And Sitges celebrates Carnival. It’s not Rio, but it is one of Europe’s most famous. It has the usual fancy costumes, parades, and enthusiastic party goers. It is an especial favourite of the gay community who are one of the many groups who choose Sitges for good times.

A day in "cava" Country

A great place for a day trip down the coast from Barcelona is our beloved cava country. One of the world’s greatest sparkling wines, more cava is exported from Catalunya than champagne from France.

The word cava is the Catalan for cave, or an underground wine celler. Around here cava flows like water.

It’s not just for super-special occasions although nothing is really special without it. So any time of the day or night just chill it up any time of the day or night and pop that cork.

A relaxing 40-minute train ride from Plaza Catalunya takes you right to the belly of the sparkling wine beast: Sant Sadurni D’Anoia. This town oozes sparkling wine through its pours; even the metal auto barriers are in the shape of champagne corks.

From the train station you are within walking distance of the Cordoniu and Freixenet, the two cava giants and two of the four biggest sparkling-wine producers in the world. Both have excellent English tours and tastings, but to be safe, reserve ahead.

Let’s start with my personal favourite: the great "bodega" (winery) Codorniu (winery): Designed Puig y Cadalfach, this beautiful art nouveau building has been declared a Monument of National Historical Artistic Merit, no less. A little long-winded perhaps, but it is an obligatory pilgrimage for students of architecture as well as lovers of wine.

Everything at Cordoniu is done with artistic flair: their turn-of-the-century advertising posters are classics of the belle epoch. Cordoniu was one of the pioneers of “wine tourism” and their tour is an absolute must.

Freixenet is the other of San Sadurni’s giants. As you arrive by train there is, right next to the railway station. This is the center of a great bubbly empire.

In fact Freixenet is the largest sparkling wine maker. You get a feel for its breath-taking size and modern organization in a half-hour trolley tour. And then the tasting is really excellent. You can then contrast the size and power of the giants with any of the many smaller bodegas found throughout the town and be back in Barcelona for a chilled glass of cava before dinner.Throughout harvest time, from September 26 to October 14, there are almost daily special events.